Perfume Log



Smelt a bunch of things at the shopping centre last week, trying to remember them from minimal notes.

Erba Pura

Christian Carbonnel & Laura Santander Xerjoff 2019
19 Sep 2024 ? paper

I tried this because the bottle’s a nice colour and I thought it would be herbal and fresh smelling. It’s not, it smells like flouro yellow lollies, and bubblebath, it’s gross. Now I see the notes there’s bergamot, lemon, orange… :/

This was in Libertine, which was an annoying place to try things because all the bottles are empty so you have to ask. That bugged me, so I didn’t try anything after.

Iris Poudre

Pierre Bourdon Frédéric Malle 2000
19 Sep 2024 ? paper

All the other stuff I tried was at Mecca.

Didn’t mind this at first, wasn’t expecting to like it, but it’s floral and powdery and bugged me after it got more and more floral. All the Frédéric Malle ones I actually wanted to try weren’t there.

By the Fireplace

Marie Salamagne Maison Margiela 2015
19 Sep 2024 ? paper

I wanted to try a couple of Maison Margiela ones because I saw them elsewhere on a real big discount. I try these same two every time I go into Mecca thinking I might like them this time, but I never do. This one in particular is sooo sweet, not smokey or anything like I would expect from the name.

Jazz Club

Aliénor Massenet Maison Margiela 2013
19 Sep 2024 ? paper and skin

This one in particular has always been raved about online, but it’s also too sweet—but not as sweet—and not smokey and boozey improvisational and cool like the name implies.

Gaiac 10

Annick Ménardo Le Labo 2008
19 Sep 2024 ? skin

They has a wee table with some of the Le Labo city exclusives on it, so was excited to try some of the ones there, especially ones I wouldn’t pay $10 for a sample of…

This is the Tokyo one. As with all of them I don’t see the connection with the city and the perfume, so not sure if there’s really supposed to be one. This is kinda interesting, real sharp, like rubbing/cleaning alcohol. Faded real fast and I didn’t get anything else.

Can’t shake the feeling this is based on some weird stereotype of Japan…

Cedrat 37

Daphné Bugey Le Labo 2021
19 Sep 2024 ? skin

Ah lime, the fruit of… Germany…

I have a sample of this, but tried it again for some reason. Mostly I got lime, didn’t pick up a floral element like I did the first time. Will probably wear this this Spring.

Tabac 28

Frank Voelkl Le Labo 2019
19 Sep 2024 ? skin

Quite liked at first, smokey leather. Turned into boring leather, then smokey again. Just don’t think I’m a leather person.


Tom of Finland

Antoine Lie Etat Libre d'Orange 2007
17 Sep 2024 Evening, housesitting 1.5ml sample

Very smooth, sweet (vanilla, tonka), airy leather, like that other leathery one I smelt recently. There was a bit of something more complex at the start, a little vetiver, woody, smokey, a little bit sharper and fresher, but faded fast. Doesn’t really live up to the name. More Tom Ford than Tom of Finland.

Sprayer smells harshly citrusy, but I don’t get that when I’m wearing it.


Nephthys

Ross Spencer Wild Hybrid ?
29 Aug 2024 Afternoon at home 1ml sample

Got a few samples from Wild Hybrid the other day. They have a gazillion different perfumes and lots of them sound interesting. The vials they come in are a bit annoying, but at least they have a dabber (Comme Des Garçons take note); plus they’re oils, so work better in that format, I think.

I get a lot of something similar to Vicks Vaporub, like that real big chest-filling element of it, eucalyptus, camphor… Makes this seem more like an oil you’d burn rather than wear. Notes have ‘embalming resins’ in them, which I connect this to. I guess it’s also a fair bit herbal, like you pick oregano, eucalyptus, and other things, and rub them and mangle them in your hands. Otherwise it’s woody and sweet and thick and almost chocolatey, which helps tone down the Vicks a bit. I’m not too into those kindas of creamy, chocolatey smells though.

Maybe a good looking after yourself doing stuff at home smell.


Blackpepper

Nicolas Beaulieu Comme des Garçons 2016
17 Aug 2024 ? 2ml sample

When you open the bottle it has a lovely, freshly cracked black pepper smell. On my skin I get a little bit of pepper, but mostly a warm, soft leather. I feel like having to dab it on rather than spray it means it’s not coming across properly. The leather kinda turns to fluffy woollen jumper.


Papyrus Oud 71

Michel Almairac Parle Moi de Parfum 2018
13 Aug 2024 Spring day outside 1ml decant

Dry, smokey, nice amount of sweetness.

Cedar, lavender, patchouli smokiness. Sweetness is warm, like amber, musk, maybe tonka.

Didn’t seem to change over the day.


Cedrat 37

Daphné Bugey Le Labo 2021
12 Aug 2024 Spring day outside 1.5ml sample

Ooo, I quite like this. A nice citrus, a bit limey, but in between lime and lemon (I don’t remember ever smelling a fresh citron, only candied, so can’t compare), and something a bit floral, a white floral like orange blossom I actually like. A really nice, fresh, Spring perfume.

Checking the notes later there’s no mention of flowers, just citron, ginger, wood, musk, ambergris. Well!

This is another one of the city exclusives so the price is completely bonkers. AUD$255 for just 15ml, etc.


Mortel

Yann Vasnier Trudon 2017
08 Aug 2024 Slightly Spring morning 1.5ml sample

Hmmmm. Really kinda pops off my skin into my nose. I get pepper, mint, lime, but it’s kinda solemn rather than sunny like those notes might suggest.

Official notes are pepper, incense, and benzoin (amber).

Unfortunately it also smells like fly spray.


Au Coeur du Désert

Andy Tauer Tauer 2016
05 Aug 2024 Slightly Spring morning 1ml decant

When I first sprayed I got a big whiff of sweet musk sticks, but the smell on my skin was very strong patchouli, dry, sharp. Walking around I smelt less patchouli and more of the sweetness.

Started going sweet, very similar to other patchouli+sweet perfumes, fizzy like they tend to be. Person I imagine wearing this is some Euro guy with too many scarves, too many bracelets, and maybe annoying facial hair.

A couple of hours later the obnoxious sweet ness is gone, warm, thick, musksticky sweetness is coming in. Smokey rose??


Mousse de Chene

Daphné Bugey Le Labo 2017
02 Aug 2024 Winter night at the bowls club 1.5ml sample

Took the chance to get samples of some of the city exclusive Le Labo perfumes.

For the first two hours I thought they’d put the wrong stuff in my vial, smelt like lime to me (partner got Poivre which smelt nothing like how we remembered from smelling on paper in London which was odd too—). After that I got the pink pepper and patchouli clearly, and started to enjoy it. With hindsight I think that first phase was the oakmoss and pepper and patchouli all mixed up.


1740 Marquis de Sade

? Histoires de Parfums 2000
02 Aug 2024 Icy, sunny Winter day 2ml sample

At first spray smells a bit old man-y, sweet vanilla leather . . .

Then I notice cardamom, patchouli . . . The cardamom is nice. It has that dryness on my tongue real cardamom does.

I’ve smelt this patchouli, cardamom, vanilla combo before and not sure how much I like wearing it, but I kinda like smelling it. I think it’s too stuffy for me. It has this airy, powderiness that I think is kinda interesting, but also smells a bit thin and plasticy, which is what I’m not into.

As the cardamom gets more dominant I like this more. Only took 5 minutes—patience me, patience

Maybe nice outside in Autumn.


Concrete

Nicolas Beaulieu Comme des Garçons 2017
29 Jul 2024 Icy Winter day 2ml sample

Opens sweet, acidic floral. Chemically lemon. Nothing concrete about it. Icy. Shoulda called it lemonade icypole.
Giving off public toilet flouro yellow hand soap now…yuck.

It’s sharp and cold. If that’s their interpretation of concrete that’s a pretty fucking unsophisticated one imo.

Had to wash it off, then my wrists smelt like urinal cakes for a while.

Comments I’m reading now make me feel like there’s the wrong perfume in my vial.